Coco Chanel is one of the superstars of 20th Century fashion. She was named by Time as one of the 100 most influential people of the century. Her designs were something of a revolution—borrowing from men's clothing to make women's clothing, yet maintaining a feminine sense. Born in a poorhouse, she became both rich and famous. Coco Before Chanel tells the story of her life before fame came her way.

It opens with her being left at an orphanage by her father. From there, she and her sister are making ends meet by singing in a local bar. (Singing a song about a dog named "Coco" provides her with her nickname.) There she meets Étienne Balsan, a rich playboy and socialite with whom she moves in. At first she is very much an outsider among Balsan and his friends, but she soon becomes part of the crowd, yet never quite fully belonging. The decadent lifestyle never quite sits right with her. Even though she comes from a much lower social standing, she seems to be aloof around these bourgeoisies. She refuses to dress following the fashion of the day, preferring simplicity and comfort and making her own clothes from those of her lovers. Yet, even with so much being given to her and so much of the "good life" at her fingertips, she doesn't find contentment. She begins to find happiness in her affair with "Boy" Capel, but when that comes to a disastrous end, she seems to give up on happiness all together.

It should be noted how seldom Chanel smiles or laughs throughout the film. Audrey Tautou usually has such a bright countenance that the severity of her performance adds an emphasis to the starkness of Chanel's demeanor. There are times, here and there, where the joys of love and life fill her, but most of the time it seems she has just the hint of a scowl. Chanel is very like the ancient Stoics. She does not, like her companions, follow her appetites or passions. All of her choices are made with a strong sense of reason, whether the choice involves clothing or social conformity.

Chanel seems to have an innate wisdom. "Boy" introduces her to the writings of some modern philosophers, but even before that she seems to be searching for more than just a way to get by. She wants a life that has meaning. The question is, where can she find that meaning? In the parties and rich lifestyle at Balsan's estate? In the affairs she has? In her work making hats and later clothing? For Chanel what makes life valuable is living it on her own terms—not following the changing winds of fashion and society, but using her own compass to set her course.

There is a certain irony that as a designer, Chanel set fashions that many others followed, even though she eschewed following such trends and fads herself—that a nonconformist could become the one others imitate.

The film ends with a brief epilogue of Chanel later in life as she sends out models with her newest fashions. In a moment of quiet, she reflects back on the life that brought her to this place and we see one of her rare smiles. But we are left to wonder what brings the smile or if the smile is even genuine. I think that viewers may well read that smile with their own understanding of what makes a life worth living.